“Rancid rice and lentils ravaged my liver!” Chanting
relentlessly, rolling her eyes, beating her breast, shuffling her encrusted
feet on the parched ground, Aashan, the washerwoman, mesmerized her
audience. The women encircling her
joined the chant, clapping in unison, a human drum. Eyes shut, face to the sky, body arched as if
dancing the limbo, she collapsed in a heap on her back; Sheedan, the cleaning
maid, replaced her immediately with a quickened pace. As the beat reached a crescendo, the circle
parted as her body trembled in ecstasy.
Tearing at her hair and clothes, she changed the chant to, “I tear at
the white ants that bite me.” Sexual innuendos in every gesture. Giggles,
guffaws! Village women in mismatched shalwar kameez, heads half draped with
chadors revealing multiple levels of earrings in one ear, red glass bangles
harmonizing to the beat of the empty water pitcher beaten with a broken plastic
slipper and a shard of broken pottery - Sweat, dust, thumps, claps, and raucous
laughter. Village women in Lyallpur,
descendants of the original natives, entertained themselves on a stifling
summer night under the pair of aging white mulberry trees.
This pair of aging white mulberry trees sheltered us in
worship during the scorching summer afternoons, using dried Neem fruit as
rosary beads, the bitter smell lingering on our fingers for the rest of the day
after hours spent reciting in Arabic, “Exalted is Allah, and All praise is to
Allah, and there is no God worthy of worship except Allah” on each fruit being
pushed through sweaty fingers to complete the lakh, hundred thousand
repetitions, required for acceptance.
The Neem tree, somewhat like the American buffalo, covers all human
needs: its leaves are edible if cooked, the branches can replace a tooth brush,
and its oil can be used in cosmetics and as a cure for malaria. But since the
dried fruit was in such high demand, sometimes it was replaced with dried date
pits, gathered, in my imagination, after an enormous date fest. The worship would also include Friday
afternoon prayers during Ramadan, which required similar repetitions during
namaaz. Parched with thirst because of
the fast, exhausted with the heat, we would find the long needed respite during
sajda, “Allah is great!”, eyes closed, forehead pressed on the hardened dusty
ground covered with an even dustier mat, damp from the previous decades of
monsoon rains.
The end of Ramadan, Eid, was also celebrated under the pair
of aging white mulberry trees on the peeng, creaking rope-swing hanging on the
hollowed out branch. Always in
pairs. One would stand thrusting her
pelvis forward to give the swing height, and the other would sit pushing her
legs backwards to increase the speed.
The seat was Aashan’s washing stick softened by years of beating the
blue Robin Neel out of the yellowed white kurta shalwar,the starched white
clothes worn by the boys, who never sat on the swing, but were always there to
receive Eidi, money to celebrate the end of the month of fasting. Crumpled ruppee notes, with the image of the
founder of the country, Mohammad Ali Jinnah, hidden deep in sweaty socks, no
need for wallets or purses, were
immediately rushed to the village
store. Shrouded in a mud colored chador,
Hazrann, the Punjabi version of Hagar, was a savvy business woman, and
extremely determined, not unlike her name sake. Once a week, she transformed
her tiny hut into a child’s dream filled with piercingly colored unwrapped hard
boiled sweets, fuscia colored bubble gum that stained sticky lips and cheeks if
the bubble exploded, psychedelic mouth watering tangy powders, sweetened puffed
rice, all unhygienicly scrumptious.
§§§
Memory can distort events; the distortions are magnified
with repetition. Like drops of water
chiseling a rock, magnified distortions become reality. My selective memories of growing up in
Lyallpur, the Manchester of Pakistan, might follow a similar pattern. For more worldly Punjabis, affiliation to
Lyallpur would be somewhat akin to a Californian’s connection with
Bakersfield. Traveling from San
Francisco to LA down highway 5, you don't have to see Bakersfield, you can
smell it. The daily commute to school
from my grandfather’s farm in Lyallpur required the same olfactory immunity
during the annual month-long buffalo market.
“Mela, Mundi, Mawashian” the poetic roadside sign announcing “Fair,
Market, Cattle” was unnecessary. But
there was no escaping the stench with no air conditioning in the sky blue
Cortina with windows rolled down to catch the early morning breeze we listened
to the high pitched but melodious rendition of "repeat Allah’s name and
don't give anyone pain " on the radio and in the late dusty afternoon
returning from school the sound of my yet unmarried uncle’s collection of sexy Bollyood
hits on his mobile vinyl turntable.
Sitting in the front seat between my father and my uncle,
always smelling of the best imported cologne available, with my three sisters
in the back seat, usually with a fourth passenger, maybe an aunt or a cousin
who needed a ride to the city, the hour’s drive I would doze off or wander into
the unknown future.
I don't remember the sound of the morning school bell
because we always arrived as our classes were already lining up for
Assembly. Being one of the shortest, I
stood in front as the Catholic Sister Angela, a local, and Sister Gabriel, an
Italian immigrant, lead us through the English translation of Surah Fateha, the
lord’s prayer. After being delivered
from evil, we took the path to our classes.
Sacred Heart High School, where Jesus stood in a glass cabinet under the
stairs reminding us of the sacrifice he
had made so that we could study in the private school while the real Catholics
studied in the school next door, St.
Joseph. We wore blue sweaters and
they wore red! We paid tuition, they didn't! We were taught in English, they in
Urdu. We could have joined them during
recess, but we didn't.
The half-hour recess was spent screaming over the heads and
shoulders of other girls dressed in white frocks and shalwars, now wrinkled and
sweaty. “ Three samosas”, “a coke”, “two chips”, “daal”, stretching across the
greasy counter, waving notes and coins under the nose of the bespectacled
Italian tuck shop owner, who had fallen in love with the school groundskeeper
on his trip to Italy and had returned with him to join the Italian sisters
running the school for predominantly Muslim
families.
Catholicism was brought to Punjab by Belgian Capuchins in
the late nineteenth century over two centuries after the California missions
were established. But like the missions in California, there was a strong
connection between the need for spiritual redemption and the secular
labor. So after the Chenab irrigation
project of the 1880s, there was a sudden rush of mass conversions from the
local primarily untouchable Hindus to Catholicism. Newly irrigated land meant jobs for those
creating the new towns and villages.
Those who had no chance of receiving land allotments found a way to
employment.
Near Lyallpur, Friar Felix a Capuchin monk from Belgium
founded the Christian village, Khushpur-a literal translation of his name,
Happy Town- ironically is known for being the home of martyrs: Bishop John Joseph, who committed suicide in 1998
protesting the Pakistani constitutional blasphemy laws, and the politician,
Clement Shahbaz Bhatti, who was assassinated in 2011 for doing the same.
§§§
“How little notice we take, as a nation of our achievements!
When an American city springs up in the wilderness, and hosts are attracted
thither by greed of gold we hear all about it.
Our papers are full of cable grams reporting its wealth and greatness,
its expanding population, and its explosive crimes. But who had heard until the other day of
Lyallpur? How many even now remember
that they ever heard of Lyallpur? How
many know why Lyallpur should be Lyallpur, and not Jonesville or
Bryantown? You will only find Lyallpur
in very recent maps, for it is situated in the midst of what was six years ago
a scorched, sandy waste in the heart of an uninhabited, waterless tract of the
Punjab. Sir J. B. Lyall was at that time Lieutenant-Governor of
the Punjab, and irrigation schemes then undertaken have converted the desert
into a fertile, prosperous region. With a flourishing population of 200,000
agriculturist. Lord Curzon happened to
mention the fact in reply to an address of welcome presented to him in the
Punjab, and by that means the British public-which takes an interest in Lord
Curzon, who was once in the House of Commons-became indirectly reminded that
British Rule in India works with a magician’s wand, touching the deserts and
changing them to level expanses of rich crops from horizon to horizon. But Lord Curzon has spoken of other topics
since; and Lyallpur is forgotten.”
Lyallpur would not be forgotten as anticipated in this
newspaper report on April 13, 1899. Even after it was renamed Faisalabad, it
stayed in the forefront but not as prosperous or prominent as the American city
springing up in the wilderness, attracting the hordes of immigrants looking for
gold.
Whereas the Paris of the West, the home of Tony Bennet’s
heart, San Francisco, was financed by the gold rush; the Manchester of the
East, the Utopia of India, Lyallpur, was seminated by the Grand Canal Plan of
the Raj. Only two years before San
Francisco’s rebirth from the ashes of the great fire, Lyallpur became a
district. As San Francisco embarked on
its intellectual journey becoming the center of the liberal world, Lyallpur
steamed into the next century becoming an agricultural and industrial center
with the third largest city in the sixth most populous country in the world,
Pakistan. These two cities, separated by
oceans and an even greater chasm of language and culture, embody the yin and
yang of immigrants like me. They represent immigrants learning languages and
cultures so foreign to their own, and thereby creating an anomaly astounding
even to the individual morphing into the new reality.
The Indian Utopia! Few today would agree with Lord Curzon’s
description in his address to the immigrant natives of Lyallpur at the
magistrate’s house on April 3, 1903. He
would be extremely disappointed to know that in just over a hundred years, the
town he serenaded as a supreme accomplishment of the Raj would become the safe
house for Guantanamo internee, Abu Zubaydah, enemy of the free world. Had he known, he might have agreed with the
immigrant natives’ request for the epitome of British organization, a
cantonment, but like a child’s unnecessary request, they were turned down. This was neither the time nor the place for
such a request. The 1857 experience,
the Indian Revolution (or Mutiny depending on the side one takes) was still too
fresh, and maybe the British Government had anticipated that Lyallpur would
become the center of unionist movements, and the birthplace of Bhagat Singh,
the Sikh anarchist and socialist, who became a martyr to the independence
movement.
A century later, the British High Commissioner Mark Lyall
Grant, the great grand nephew of the founder of Lyallpur, Sir Lyall, would
revisit the city to try and clean it up, and also complain about the name
change. In 1977, Lyallpur had been renamed Faislabad after the assassination
of the benign and comparatively liberal
monarch of Saudi Arabia, Faisal bin Abdulaziz Al Saud, who, by the way had not
made a direct contribution to the city, but had funded a mosque in the capital,
Islamabad, clearly an attempt to end the relationship with the original British
colonize and begin a new one.
Even though British citizens were more interested in the new
city in America than the one created India, the governing powers were too busy
creating such Utopias like Lyallpur to consider competing with the Spanish in
purchasing San Francisco. Unlike San
Francisco’s haphazard and somewhat tumultuous beginnings, in typical Raj
fashion, Lyallpur was meticulously planned and each step minutely
recorded. The natives were categorized,
their castes, languages and religions, of which there many, were catalogued to
be studied by later generations on google books-inconceivable to the British
magistrates sweating in their verandahed homes, trying to stay cool as their
servants pulled mechanically on the ropes of the ceiling fans luxuriating in
the glory of creating a city modeled around the Union Jack. Khartoum being the only other city branded so
blatantly.
When those colonized ultimately free themselves, they can
destroy all visible evidence of their suppression, but if the foundation is
innately colonial, it is nearly impossible to change it.
For a city with hardly any recorded history, a city where
nomads, the Janglis, roamed with their livestock, a city just two hours from
the intellectual center of the Punjab, Lahore, to evolve from an agricultural
utopia to an industrialized monstrosity.
A city so well-planned, the evolution will remain an enigma to its
inhabitants. Lyallpur, the center of agriculture and later a giant of industry
was born of the Grand Plan of irrigating the then not- so -fertile plains of
western Punjab to become part of the flourishing bread bin of India, the
provider of food and war fodder for the British during the Second World
War. The natives migrated in
droves. Based on their castes and
backgrounds, so well-documented, they were gifted parcels of land, large enough
to cultivate, but taxed enough to control.
Thousands benefited, including my great grandfather, working with the
British colonizing officers to ensure all natives were provided with this newly
created haven of land that could now grow wheat to fill the bread bins, cotton
to cover them from the burning heat of the plains and sugar cane to sweeten the
impact of the labor intensive work.
But the colonial and revolutionary history wasn’t a key
aspect of the years I spent in Lyallpur.
I graduated from High School and majored in English Literature and
Philosophy from the Government College for Women, near the famous clock tower
at the center of the Union Jack, the original plan of the city. And then I moved on, graduate school,
marriage, and immigration to the US. I started teaching English as a first,
second, or third language at a community college. My students are primarily Spanish speakers
from Mexico, who bring with them experiences and histories unimaginable to
others who have not needed or not chosen to migrate. Maybe they are distorted or created
histories; the farther one moves, the more difficult it is to focus. But is complete clarity possible?
After leaving for San Francisco, I returned to Faisalabad
regularly. One summer, after my father's
death, I had to sign some papers for my inheritance. For the first time, I had to go to the city
courts, the kathchery, in the center of town.
As I waited first in one room, then in another, till I was invited into
the main office, covered in my chador, I felt very much at home. I was offered a few cups of tea, in the usual
cultural tradition of offices in Pakistan. The walls were thick and musty,
decades old files sat in neat piles all around the office. Later I realized I could have just requested
the papers be sent home, but I’m glad I got to have sat in the building that
had been the center of the Utopia that is still waiting to become the city that
was built out of nothing.